­ Why Jerez de la Frontera Is One of My Favourite Cities in the World

"Where is your favourite place in Spain?" I get this a lot. The country I now call home is so diverse. Every village and town, even in the same regions, are completely different. 

While I love the wonderful El Puerto de Santa Maria, where I live, the labyrinth of historic tiny streets of Cádiz, the elegance of Sevilla and the white villages that scatter the mountains, there is one city that just captivates me. 

Jerez de la Frontera.

It isn't trying to be fashionable. It isn't polished for tourists. It is simply Andalusian, wonderfully authentic and bursting with character.

Every visit feels like stepping into the real Spain.

A city built around sherry and food

One of the first things I noticed about Jerez was the sherry and food culture. Though that is probably because the first thing my husband does when we visit a new place, is hunt out the very best 'old school' Spanish tapas bars and restaurants for us to try. Boy does Jerez have lots of these.

You can wander from one traditional tabanco to another, enjoying local cheeses, jamón, seafood and simple Andalusian dishes that have been perfected over generations. And of course, sample the delightful Jerez sherry and vermouth.

Don't just look for the places on gorgeous squares or with beautful terraces. Some of the best bars we have had the pleasure of visiting are tucked away in the back streets and don't even have a terrace to sit out. 

Think gorgeous Andalusian tiles, hundreds of old framed bullfight or flamenco adverts on the walls, dark wood, litter on the floor by the bar and a lot of noise from locals. It is in these bars where we have had some of the best food and Jerez is full of them.

A bodega on almost every corner

Jerez is synonymous with sherry. It is part of the famous sherry triangle.

Whether you're already a fan or have never really explored it, this is the place where the wine truly comes to life.

Some of the world's most famous bodegas are based here, their cellars stretching across entire city blocks.

Walking through these historic buildings, surrounded by rows of ageing casks, you begin to understand why Jerez has been producing wines for centuries.

One of my favourite visits is to Fundador, the oldest bodega in Jerez and home to the famous Harveys Bristol Cream.

It always brings back a smile because Harveys Bristol Cream was actually the very first alcoholic drink I ever tasted. My nan would let me have a sip when I was little. At the time it felt incredibly grown up. Years later, standing in the very place where it is produced, felt strangely nostalgic.

Sometimes travel has a wonderful way of connecting the past with the present.

Surrounded by history 

Jerez has more than 3,000 years of history.

The city has been shaped by Romans, Moors and Christians, all leaving their mark on its streets.

The magnificent Alcázar is one of the best-preserved Moorish fortresses in southern Spain, with beautiful gardens, ancient walls and panoramic views across the city.

Just a short walk away stands the Cathedral of Jerez, an impressive blend of Gothic, Baroque and Neoclassical architecture that reflects the city's fascinating past.

The historic centre is full of elegant squares, hidden courtyards and grand buildings that reward anyone willing to wander without a map.

A city that still feels genuinely Spanish

Perhaps what I love most is that Jerez hasn't lost its identity.

You still hear Spanish spoken everywhere.

Children play football in the squares.

Older gentlemen sit outside cafés discussing life over sherry.

The markets remain busy, independent shops thrive and local traditions continue much as they always have.

It feels wonderfully authentic.

The home of the Andalusian horse

Jerez is also recognised worldwide for its magnificent Andalucian horses.

The city is home to the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art, where visitors can watch breathtaking displays of classical dressage.

Even if you're not particularly interested in horses, the precision, elegance and centuries-old tradition make the performances unforgettable.

It's one of those experiences that perfectly captures the grace and heritage of Andalucía.

Special oasis in the heart of the city

Whenever I visit, I love stopping at the Hotel Casa Palacio María Luisa.

Hidden behind elegant walls, this beautifully restored five-star hotel feels like an oasis.

Its peaceful gardens, luxurious rooms and tranquil atmosphere offer a complete contrast to the lively streets outside.

Whether you're staying overnight or simply enjoying a drink in the courtyard, it's the perfect place to recharge before heading back out to explore.

More than just a day trip

Many visitors only spend a few hours in Jerez before moving on. Or those who come into Cadiz on cruises jump on buses to Sevilla instead of discovering Cadiz or Jerez.

I think that's a mistake.

This is a city to be savoured slowly.

Take time to wander its streets, enjoy an unhurried lunch, visit a bodega, watch the horses, explore the Alcázar and simply sit in a plaza with a sherry while the world goes by.

That's when Jerez reveals its true character.

For me, it's one of the most authentic cities anywhere in Spain.

And every time I leave, I'm already looking forward to coming back. I am very lucky that is is only 9 minutes on the train from my home of El Puerto de Santa Maria.